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Last week was a crazy one and the next few weeks of January and all of February will be even more busy for me (not complaining). Anyway I'm beginning to realize that being a workhaholic, emotional yoyo (creative bipolar) and battling insomnia aren't the best match. I'm digressing as usual... the point I'm chasing is that I won't be doing my usual "mid length" review of the menswear shows because of the above reasons. HOWEVER what I will do is a quick statement/fact/thought/trend/"wildcard" on shows as I see them. This post will be updated as I see each collection, with numbered images. Simple?
1.2. Trussardi 1911| Celebrating their centenary Beatrice and creative director Milan (fitting) Vukmirovic show basics e.g. white T in chamois leather 3.5. Burberry Prorsum| A coat for every man, reignited regality. Doeskin, patent leather, plaid and vibrancy. Bailey display's outerwear, innovating in moments and not alienating (for the most part). 4- wildcard and 5- want that camel jumper. 6.8. Dolce & Gabbana| Bryan Ferry inspired, a tux for every possibility, the decadent or the opulent. Print 2 pieces, cropped jackets and low hung trousers.
8.11. Jil Sander| Great show, a continuation of the colour blocking seen in the SS show. Nicely introducing "feminine" ideals (flower garden shades and cuts) yet keeping pieces wearable for a man that's not a runway model. 12.13. Emporio Armani| Zippers prominent (not that you can tell from my chosen images) 12- want long blazer coat and 13- love a brogue boot.
14.16. Bottega Veneta| leather trousers, monochrome wools suits, injections of colour, distressed and frayed edges and light layering. Very wearable collection. 17. Moncler Gamme Bleu| my souvenir showman which again serves up quality which I could dissect from it's themed runway styling for daily wear. 18. Vivienne Westwood| "student boyfriends". The Dame with the fashion footprint. 18.- I'd wear the entire look, might pass on the lippy and flapper girl hair.
19.22. Prada| Best show (so far). Argyle pattern usually seen on eye offending jumpers and OAP socks Miuccia again makes something classically modern, not remakes but a progress with a hat tilt to past times. 70's suede, loose knee breeches met by knee highs and pastel box holdalls. 21- boxy loose fitted coats is on the wishlist 22- lurex emerald green turtle V neck combo- wildcard. 23.24. Alexander McQueen| Sarah Burton's second menswear collection as creative director following Lee's passing. Collection shows war, englishman and leather lucifer. Regimented and romanticised. Blood red, workmen blue's and egg yolk, with slash block lines on shirts inverted and fur collars all done with the McQueen sinister undertone which made him one of my favourite designers.
25.26. Versace| 'we're not doing casual this season" true that! Wouldn't mind a suit or two from this collection, not that I wear suits often.. but I could. 27.28| Neil Barrett| Scuba war! Good proportion from the body conscious designer. Highlight for me are the bottoms; slouchy trousers and scuba/biker "meggings" with boots. Good stuff. More clothes in one wear doesn't make an outfit more stylish! 29. D&G| As is coca-cola needed further promotion, fun but tbh it's nothing we haven't seen on the high street or in those tourist shops, just glorified in the name of fashion. Walking billboard aside this collection offers youth, corduroys vibrancy, sneaks, layers and logos 30. Z Zegna| This collection doesn't isolate those men not so experimental or creative when it comes to fashion. Some great coats... fitting for the season being presented.
worth a mention (not so much a picture) DSquared²| Spotted Johnny Depp influence in styling. Not a fan but I am partial to a good hat.
Images courtesy of Style. Numbered by me.